Thursday 25 June 2015

Day 23 #B.E. Shigatse - Old Tingri : A Singapore Girl With Her 200CC Motorbike, Alone In The Himalayas

The Himalayas Mountains

Geographical plates are colliding, the ground is shaking and the Earth is moving. This is how the magnificent Himalayas was formed over the last 50 million years.

Credits to desktopwallpapers4 - The Himalayas
 
Home to 9 out of 10 of the highest peaks on Earth, with Mount Everest claiming the top of the lot, the Himalayas is known for its harsh weather conditions and is an area very prone to Earthquakes.

All ready
Was I afraid?

Yes.

But it was my fears that pushed me to go forward, because I know deep down inside, I am ready.


It is Day 23 of my journey.

I have lost just around 3KG, my skin is cracking, experienced a minor nose bleed once due to the extremely dry air here, and gawd, I'm fcking exhausted.



As you can see, other than a blood-stained rim (I'm not sure what I've killed) and its left fork leaking like crazy, my trusty Suzuki DR200 is doing just fine having traveled over many different terrains and slamming through uncountable pot holes, with its Pirelli Scorpion tyres holding up alright.


My hair (which has now turned into hay) is forever in a mess, and I've gotten used to being surrounded by small groups of curious local Tibetans from each town that I visit.

Lazi-Chinese Folk Culture Town
Moved off a little later than usual this morning as we needed to get clearance first from the respective government offices to gain access into the Himalayas Region.


Note that even at times when you have all your paperwork and proper documentation, there still lies a possibility where you can still be refused entry into the next town for whatever reasons.


It is all up to the discretion of the officers in charge. Therefore visitors are always advised to manage their expectations when visiting Tibet.


Bypassed the Ancient City of Sakya and headed on towards Old Tingri, a small town nestled in the Himalayas Region of Tibet.


But first, there's a strict check point to pass as from this point on, it is considered entering the Himalayas.

As the Himalayas share borders between Tibet, Nepal and India, the zone here is highly sensitive and is no longer guarded by ordinary police officers, but by the military army. Guns are replaced with rifles here, and carried on their backs, ready to shoot down anyone who tries to be funny.


I only managed to snap just 1-2 shots (above), because I don't wanna get shot by taking some more shots. LOL (Photography is not allowed).

This is the check point to clear to access the Himalayas Region, where Old Tingri lies about 150KM away further in. My guide had all my paperwork, a few questions were asked and we successfully cleared.


A German couple just after us had all their paperworks in place too but was unfortunately refused entry. There is no argument or discussion here, they'd have to head back 200KM to the previous town where they set off from :(



As advised by the military, I am currently the only foreigner here in the Himalayas area of Tibet now.

Puzzled as to why I'm entering a quake-zone when every other person is trying to leave or has left this place, they let me pass anyway but I've got to be really careful in terms of obeying the rules and guarding my personal safety.


Here I am, officially in the Himalayas where I stand 5,200m in altitude, which is the same as Mount Everest Base Camp, my final destination point.

It's dry, cold, and the winds are very strong.


So strong that I literally had to lean to the left and ride slanted because the wind was just pushing my bike and I off course. I was holding on tightly to my handlebars so the wind won't blow me away (ok I know I'm not that light, but stillllllll hahah).


Old Tingri is a really small town (just a short stretch of about 300metres?), and it's the last town just before Mount Everest Base Camp. It is 110KM to Zhang Mu (Tibet)/Kodari Border (Nepal).

A young local girl running to me for ciggies. Too bad, I don't smoke.

Ever since the devastating earthquake that paralyzed Kathmandu Nepal just barely one month back in May and sending aftershocks to various parts of the Himalayas Region in Tibet, this place has became a ghost town.

I witnessed the measures taken by the military for the people who still choose to live here.


Tents are set up right outside the people's houses, and they're not allowed to live in their houses at this point should there be another case of earthquake, their houses made of bricks won't collapse on them.

Most of the locals have in fact moved out, to another place, further away from the quake zone.


Majority of the restaurants, shops and even motels here in Old Tingri are closed and left with dust covered over their main doors.

It was really empty.

In Tibet, Mount Everest is known as Mount Qomolangma

Well, at least there's these three little monkeys who cracked me up - they couldn't stop jumping up and down when they saw me (a foreigner all geared up) on my bike.


The naughtiest of the lot. He took a step closer when I asked him if he'd like to head to Mount Everest Base Camp with me on my motorbike haha.

Doesn't he have a mischievous face? XD


It's around 9:00PM now and the sky is still bright as the daytime here lasts longer. Checked in at the only motel that was open, but not a single person staying in any of the rooms.

Spoke to the caretaker of this place and he shared that the motel has been completely vacant for more than a month now. Poor business after the quake.


When night fell, so did the weather temperature. It's now 0 degrees, and the howling winds are much stronger, colder than it was in the day. The whole town was dark with just one small restaurant that had it's lights up.


Though just a short distance from the motel, my guide decided to drive over because it was too cold for even a short walk. It was cosy inside and all meals were home-cooked.


Had a quick dinner and headed back to the motel to rest, but not before leaving my stamp behind ;)
Look out for it when you visit this place!

My motel room

After a long ride every day, I always look forward to a nice warm bath before crawling into bed for a good night's sleep.

But here in Old Tingri where its a rural village, there was no hot water, no heated beds, no heater in the room. The water in the shower was nothing more than an almost-spoilt tap.


All I had was a kettle.

I was freezing so I decided to make the best out of what I have.

I made my own warm shower - So I boiled some water, mixed it with cold water in my 100ml thermal flask before gently pouring it over my body, repeating this step 30 times to help ease the shivering from the cold.


I kept my feet warm by putting it over the hot steam from the water boiled in the kettle. I kept body warm by wearing all my RS Taichi thermal clothes/jacket and even gloves to sleep.


Let's hope I don't wake up as a snowman tomorrow.



[Singapore.Malaysia.Thailand.Laos.China.Tibet]
[Mileage Clocked: 7,016KM]
[Weather/Temperature: Sunny/Strong Winds/14°C/0°C]
[Altitude: 5,200m]
[Terrain: Mountain Roads/Tarmac]

Next: Mount Everest Base Camp, Himalayas Region, Tibet