Thursday, 25 June 2015

Day 23 #B.E. Shigatse - Old Tingri : A Singapore Girl With Her 200CC Motorbike, Alone In The Himalayas

The Himalayas Mountains

Geographical plates are colliding, the ground is shaking and the Earth is moving. This is how the magnificent Himalayas was formed over the last 50 million years.

Credits to desktopwallpapers4 - The Himalayas
 
Home to 9 out of 10 of the highest peaks on Earth, with Mount Everest claiming the top of the lot, the Himalayas is known for its harsh weather conditions and is an area very prone to Earthquakes.

All ready
Was I afraid?

Yes.

But it was my fears that pushed me to go forward, because I know deep down inside, I am ready.


It is Day 23 of my journey.

I have lost just around 3KG, my skin is cracking, experienced a minor nose bleed once due to the extremely dry air here, and gawd, I'm fcking exhausted.



As you can see, other than a blood-stained rim (I'm not sure what I've killed) and its left fork leaking like crazy, my trusty Suzuki DR200 is doing just fine having traveled over many different terrains and slamming through uncountable pot holes, with its Pirelli Scorpion tyres holding up alright.


My hair (which has now turned into hay) is forever in a mess, and I've gotten used to being surrounded by small groups of curious local Tibetans from each town that I visit.

Lazi-Chinese Folk Culture Town
Moved off a little later than usual this morning as we needed to get clearance first from the respective government offices to gain access into the Himalayas Region.


Note that even at times when you have all your paperwork and proper documentation, there still lies a possibility where you can still be refused entry into the next town for whatever reasons.


It is all up to the discretion of the officers in charge. Therefore visitors are always advised to manage their expectations when visiting Tibet.


Bypassed the Ancient City of Sakya and headed on towards Old Tingri, a small town nestled in the Himalayas Region of Tibet.


But first, there's a strict check point to pass as from this point on, it is considered entering the Himalayas.

As the Himalayas share borders between Tibet, Nepal and India, the zone here is highly sensitive and is no longer guarded by ordinary police officers, but by the military army. Guns are replaced with rifles here, and carried on their backs, ready to shoot down anyone who tries to be funny.


I only managed to snap just 1-2 shots (above), because I don't wanna get shot by taking some more shots. LOL (Photography is not allowed).

This is the check point to clear to access the Himalayas Region, where Old Tingri lies about 150KM away further in. My guide had all my paperwork, a few questions were asked and we successfully cleared.


A German couple just after us had all their paperworks in place too but was unfortunately refused entry. There is no argument or discussion here, they'd have to head back 200KM to the previous town where they set off from :(



As advised by the military, I am currently the only foreigner here in the Himalayas area of Tibet now.

Puzzled as to why I'm entering a quake-zone when every other person is trying to leave or has left this place, they let me pass anyway but I've got to be really careful in terms of obeying the rules and guarding my personal safety.


Here I am, officially in the Himalayas where I stand 5,200m in altitude, which is the same as Mount Everest Base Camp, my final destination point.

It's dry, cold, and the winds are very strong.


So strong that I literally had to lean to the left and ride slanted because the wind was just pushing my bike and I off course. I was holding on tightly to my handlebars so the wind won't blow me away (ok I know I'm not that light, but stillllllll hahah).


Old Tingri is a really small town (just a short stretch of about 300metres?), and it's the last town just before Mount Everest Base Camp. It is 110KM to Zhang Mu (Tibet)/Kodari Border (Nepal).

A young local girl running to me for ciggies. Too bad, I don't smoke.

Ever since the devastating earthquake that paralyzed Kathmandu Nepal just barely one month back in May and sending aftershocks to various parts of the Himalayas Region in Tibet, this place has became a ghost town.

I witnessed the measures taken by the military for the people who still choose to live here.


Tents are set up right outside the people's houses, and they're not allowed to live in their houses at this point should there be another case of earthquake, their houses made of bricks won't collapse on them.

Most of the locals have in fact moved out, to another place, further away from the quake zone.


Majority of the restaurants, shops and even motels here in Old Tingri are closed and left with dust covered over their main doors.

It was really empty.

In Tibet, Mount Everest is known as Mount Qomolangma

Well, at least there's these three little monkeys who cracked me up - they couldn't stop jumping up and down when they saw me (a foreigner all geared up) on my bike.


The naughtiest of the lot. He took a step closer when I asked him if he'd like to head to Mount Everest Base Camp with me on my motorbike haha.

Doesn't he have a mischievous face? XD


It's around 9:00PM now and the sky is still bright as the daytime here lasts longer. Checked in at the only motel that was open, but not a single person staying in any of the rooms.

Spoke to the caretaker of this place and he shared that the motel has been completely vacant for more than a month now. Poor business after the quake.


When night fell, so did the weather temperature. It's now 0 degrees, and the howling winds are much stronger, colder than it was in the day. The whole town was dark with just one small restaurant that had it's lights up.


Though just a short distance from the motel, my guide decided to drive over because it was too cold for even a short walk. It was cosy inside and all meals were home-cooked.


Had a quick dinner and headed back to the motel to rest, but not before leaving my stamp behind ;)
Look out for it when you visit this place!

My motel room

After a long ride every day, I always look forward to a nice warm bath before crawling into bed for a good night's sleep.

But here in Old Tingri where its a rural village, there was no hot water, no heated beds, no heater in the room. The water in the shower was nothing more than an almost-spoilt tap.


All I had was a kettle.

I was freezing so I decided to make the best out of what I have.

I made my own warm shower - So I boiled some water, mixed it with cold water in my 100ml thermal flask before gently pouring it over my body, repeating this step 30 times to help ease the shivering from the cold.


I kept my feet warm by putting it over the hot steam from the water boiled in the kettle. I kept body warm by wearing all my RS Taichi thermal clothes/jacket and even gloves to sleep.


Let's hope I don't wake up as a snowman tomorrow.



[Singapore.Malaysia.Thailand.Laos.China.Tibet]
[Mileage Clocked: 7,016KM]
[Weather/Temperature: Sunny/Strong Winds/14°C/0°C]
[Altitude: 5,200m]
[Terrain: Mountain Roads/Tarmac]

Next: Mount Everest Base Camp, Himalayas Region, Tibet

Wednesday, 24 June 2015

Day 22 #B.E. Lhasa - Shigatse : Meeting Guinness World Record Holder The GlobeBusters (Nat Geo) And Ascending Over 4,900m Altitude To Magical Yamdrok Lake

With a Tibetan Mastiff and the magical Yamdrok Lake at the backdrop
I leave the Captial of Tibet today, as I head West towards Shigatse (officially known as XigazĂȘ), inching closer to the Himalayas Region. 



Instead of taking National Highway G318 which was shorter, my guide decided we take 307 mountainous route instead where we will ascend over 4,900metres in altitude today and overlook the magical Yamdrok Lake. 

If you look at the distance and time required to complete, you can calculate the speed limitation imposed here.


Took this photo yesterday just in case they move off earlier than I do the next day

So remember the bunch of BMW GS adventure bikes that I bumped into? They actually belong to the The Globe Busters! It wasn't difficult to find out who they were with their awesome decal-ed support vehicle just parked beside, and we were all coincidentally staying at the same hotel in Lhasa!

Credits to Globebusters
As featured on National Geographic and not once, but two times Guinness World Record holder! Rewarded for out-of-this-world rides they did, being a Worldwide Motorcycle Expedition & Tours professional.

Credits to overlandmag
Rides from Alaska to Patagonia, Dehli to Bangkok and Southern Africa, the Globe Busters has done it all. Now they are on their latest adventure ride from London to Beijing and Lhasa is where I bumped into them! Where they are about 3 weeks from Beijing.

With the Globe Busters

I had the honor to meet the co-founder of The Globe Busters, Kevin Sanders, who has been riding since he was 17 years old and remained in this trade for decades. He and the rest of the bikers were kind to invite me over to their table during breakfast as they learnt that I am the owner of my little trusty Suzuki DR200 parked among them. Hahaha.


With the Globebusters

Even just over a short meal time, I was astounded to hear the adventure stories they generously shared involving their rides through different countries and terrains.

I almost lost track of time while listening to their stories until my guide signaled me it was time to go :(

All of them finished breakfast and walked me to my humble bike. With my RS Taichi gears all zipped up and engine warmed up, I hopped onto my bike and ready to move off as they all waved with big smiles on their faces.

On the way to Shigatse (Rikaze in Mandarin)

Just as I was about to go, Kevin passed me a little gift: Two sets of DVDs of the adventures rides the Globe Busters has done!

On the way to Shigatse

AWESOMENESS!!

I was sooo happy! Can't wait to watch it together with my friends when I get home! Hopefully it'll inspire them to get their asses off the couch and plan a ride of their lives soon too!

Heading for Gyangtse
Off I went, first stop was Gyangtse (hmm somehow the word looks a bit like Gangster lol). Ok there are no gangsters here in the mountains, only tribes.


And local Tibetans who just love walking, from mountain to mountain. These healthy people..



Blue skies, green lakes and endless mountains. From an altitude of 3,650m, I start my ascend here to 4,400m above sea level.

Just when the scenery was getting a little repetitive as I was riding up, this was revealed to me...

I can laze together with the Tibetan Mastiff all day long hereeee!

The breathtaking Yamdrok Lake!

You know when you see something SO alluring, SO beautiful, something you've never seen before, you can't contain the joy, you just can't stop laughing.

No?

Ok then it's just me thennn! I was so amazed, I couldn't stop laughing in my helmet till my cheeks were numb!



Look at how turquoise blue the lake was, and how calm the surface is! The Lake had a mirror effect, reflecting the color of the sky.

So THIS is why my guide chose to take route 307 instead of G318! It's not about choosing the shortest route all the time. Sometimes taking the longer route is way more worth it.


Yamdrok Lake is a freshwater lake stretching more than 70KM long and is one of three sacred lakes in Tibet. Local myth has it that Yamdrok Lake was a transformation from a goddess.

She must be so damn beautiful then, cuz the lake is! :D

Somehow this Tibetan boy is looking at me like I'm some alien

The weather took a turn upon arriving at Mount Ning Jin Kang Sang where it stands at 7,206m tall.

It was first climbed by a Tibetan-Chinese in 1986 and has remained as a pretty popular climbing spot due to it's easy accessibility and uncomplicated logistics requirements.

Staring at the Karola Glacier

Let's take a closer look. Hmm.. doesn't seem difficult to ride up to it's peak too! SHALL WE? :D


Uh~ Just as I was about to attempt, a local Tibetan on his motorcycle held me back and told me I'm not allowed to.

Bleah.

It was cold now with no sun, about 8 degrees. As I was admiring the scenery, this little Tibetan boy ran over and lay both his palms on my exhaust pipe to warm his hands. I told him it'll scald but he doesn't seem to care.

Oh well, whatever that keeps him warm eh.


Rode out of the threatening weather, into the Tsang province of Tibet where I stay a night in Shigatse city. And! it's back to a sunshine!

See how much and how fast the weather can fluctuate here in high altitude mountainous areas?

By now, I trust my RS Taichi gears up to 90% already as it has served me so well throughout.
The final test will be the harsh weather conditions in the Himalayas Region!

TOMORROW :)







[Singapore.Malaysia.Thailand.Laos.China.Tibet]
[Mileage Clocked: 6,742KM]
[Weather/Temperature: Sunny/Light Drizzle/15°C/8°C]
[Altitude: 4,900m]
[Terrain: Mountain Roads/Tarmac]

Next: Old Tingri, Himalayas Region

Tuesday, 23 June 2015

Day 21 #B.E. Lhasa : Checking Out The Real Dalai Lama's Place


THIS, is where Dalai Lama lives! All these years, I've read about Dalai Lama from the news to the net, and I never imagined one day I'd actually visit where he lives! Literally!

This is so cool hahaha.


Ok this place was actually the residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to India during some unrest in Tibet hence it's now a museum and a World Heritage Site.

It's called the Potala Palace and is considered as a very sacred and holy place by the locals here.
It is majestic, and.. there's so much stairs.

Tibetans with their prayer wheels
But it's no feat for Tibetans, young or old, who'd visit the Potala Palace every other day in the morning.

Some go there to offer their blessings and pray, many have what they call their own "Prayer Wheel" in hand as they walk in or around the palace.

Tibetans believe strongly in good karma by Buddhism religion, and it is believed that by continuously spinning the Prayer Wheel, it accumulates good karma and wisdom that would neutralize any bad karma.


And there are some women with children on their backs who would hang around the Potala Palace, approaching people for money, as I've noticed while queuing at the entrance.


The best time to visit the Potala Palace is in the morning. All visitors are only entitled up to just one hour in the palace, and no photography is allowed inside.

(Continues snapping away with my HTC Desire Eye phone...)


Time to climb those stairs!

Just like everybody else, both locals and foreigners like myself started to stream in once the Potala Palace gates were opened, climbing each step of stairs, one by one.

Many Tibetan women were in their tradition clothes, and those wearing a layer of colorful horizontal striped skirt in front actually represents that they are married, as explained by my local guide.



Ok I need a break after every two flight of stairs man. Plus the air here is thinner so I get breathless more easily..... Ok maybe I just don't exercise enough. Heh.


13 storeys high, containing 1,000 rooms, the Potala Palace took 45 years to build with walls that are up to 5 metres thick and has copper poured into its foundation to withstand all these years of Earthquakes.

It sure looks hardy!

Where Dalai Lama would meet his other disciples
Photography isn't allowed in here but with my sneaky HTC Re Camera, I managed to snap some shots to show you guys what's it like inside the Potala Palace and see how Tibet's history is so richly reflected on it's architecture and furnishings.


The locals paying their respects and offerings to the previous Dalai Lamas for good karma.

A small shop carrying religious scriptures etc
Because I had my local guide with me, I managed to gain some insights on the history of the Potala Palace as we went along through different areas from 8 - 12th storey. The others floors are restricted areas.

Every color and design used on walls, doors and windows all represents something

I'd recommend you get a guide too if you visit this place so at least you know what you're looking at, have a deeper understanding and know the story behind these walls.


Ended the Potala Palace tour with praying for a smooth journey for #BeyondEverest and some good karma too! Hehe.


In Singapore, we have modern-day Taxis.
In Thailand, we have three-wheeled improvised motorcycles Taxis called Tuk Tuks.

Here in Tibet, we have Tibetan-styled tricycles decorated with colorful fabrics and ringing bells all over. You tell them your destination and agree on a price before taking a ride.

My guide chose the cutest cyclist for me and brought me for a joy ride haha.


We took a ride to a local home stay. Under Tibet law, foreigners are not allowed to stay here as the government has designated hotels for us to stay in. I love home stays, but this time I can only visit to see what it's like.


Well, what do you know?

This local home stay is motorcycle-themed! Owned by a local young couple who loves motorcycling too! They do occasional touring rides around China themselves but due to work, they can't go for too long trips therefore they decided to open a home stay for visitors especially those who has a passion for two wheelers!

From petrol tanks, to wheels, fairings and handlebars of old motorcycles, none of the parts goes to waste as they are creatively decorated around the whole place!

Shweeet!


Took a slow walk through the narrow streets, observing Tibetan life from their little eateries serving home-cooked food to a small sewing shop and an old school bookstore, there's just so much to absorb in this environment as I took my time before heading back to the hotel to rest.



With the beautiful images of Lhasa and all that I've seen today locked in my mind, I know I'm going to dream of wonderful things and have a really good sleep tonight ;)




[Singapore.Malaysia.Thailand.Laos.China.Tibet]
[Mileage Clocked: 6,390KM]
[Weather/Temperature: Clear/17°C]
[Altitude: 3,650m]
[Terrain: Tarmac]

Next: Shigatse, Tibet